Lake Louise to Calgary…
We drove for nearly ten hours, so that we could bang out much of the distance between Vancouver and Banff National Park. We spent the night at a rest stop in Revelstoke. Dinner was an absolutely awful meal at a ‘frontier themed’ eatery. For the first time, the Rough Guide travel book was totally off the mark.
Early the next morning we drove the short distance to Lake Louise and checked into the campground. We were stunned to find out at the gate that the entire perimeter of the campground has been enclosed with an electric fence. We’re told that the fence is to keep us safe inside, and the bears (both grizzly and black) safe outside. For me the fence
provided a source of anxiety, as I was constantly aware of where the dog was in proximity to the fence. The mosquitoes here are mammoth, and we spent the better part of the day constantly moving to not become their target. The evening brought rain, and our attention turned to the second leak found in our van. Andy now threatens to sell the van while we are overseas. I, on the other hand have begun to chalk each little trip hiccup up to my uncanny ability to attract bad luck.
Though the rain continued the next day, Petey and I hiked to Lake Louise, and I was struck by the bright, stark beauty of the lake. While Lake Louise is a total tourist trap, complete with a Fairmont Hotel built literally a stones throw from the lake, the lake is a blinding reminder of the glacial blue hue achieved when glaciers grind mountains into rock flour and melting snow brings the silt into contact with the lake. The color reminds me of the one time I was in Interlaken Switzerland and stood in awe admiring the river that runs through the town. While at the lake, the sun peaked through for only a moment. But, that moment was long enough to watch the lake change from deep turquoise to cobalt blue.



Often a distraction from sightseeing, people-watching consumes a portion of my visit to any landmark. I enjoy watching Japanese tourists as they marvel at the sight before them and take endless amounts of pictures. I hear the familiar sounds of German as middle-aged men and their wives bike by, and I watch children play and sing songs in French while their parents sit on a bench, happy to have a moment to themselves. We are finding that there are many Europeans on holiday in Canada, and Andy and I have attempted, with no luck, to try to open a dialogue with a select few. We met two Swiss people in Vancouver at the campground, and they looked at us with confused gazes when we asked them about their travels. I had already been complaining about the lack of traveler’s ability to be civil to each other. Glances are exchanged without acknowledgement of existence, and I begin to question if the entire globe has become groupings of people content with staying in their own social box. Andy chalks it up to the culture, saying that many Swiss and Germans are naturally anti-social. I don’t accept that, and quite frankly I feel that the only understandable excuse would be a language barrier. We’re all human, and one mark of civility is the ability to force out a “hello” or “good morning”, even when it’s not convenient or comfortable. Another theory Andy has it that people go camping to ‘get away’ from everything and everyone. Okay, I’ll accept that argument. Then those people shouldn’t be camping in an electric enclosed fence campground five feet from our van door.
That said, Andy made another attempt to socialize with another group he identified as Swiss by the flag hanging from their car antenna. He returned to the campsite disgusted and said that of the four in the group, three looked at him like he was a martian. I tried to make him feel better with the ‘language barrier’ excuse, but we both know it’s just a difference in learned social cues. Andy later redeemed himself when he finally met a Swiss person, as we were preparing to leave the campground that was both civil and social. Andy noticed a Swiss license plate on the vehicle of a van parked in a campsite and approached their site. He enjoyed interesting conversation. But, the man whom he had hoped had broken the curse of the unfriendly ‘Swiss’ camper rule wasn’t actually Swiss. He wasn’t Swiss, his wife wasn’t Swiss (she is Canadian), but his wife’s parents are Swiss. As it turns out, he’s Egyptian. Go figure…
From Lake Louise we drove to Banff, a Vail like town that reeks of tourism. I don’t mean to sound jaded, but I have a few thoughts on the word tourism. The definition of tourism involves sightseeing, visiting attractions, and going to places of interest. When did that definition of tourism come to involve shopping as the main attraction? Okay, so we are on a fixed income, and maybe I’m paying more attention now to the actual ‘sights’ instead of browsing windows for trinkets that will evoke memories of travel. I admit it, in the past I have been guilty of indulging in shopping while traveling a few times in my day, but watching tourists hoof through town carrying bags and bags of crap (my personal opinion of course) is beginning to make me think that somewhere in tourism the sightseeing has become lost. When you are in the middle of the Canadian Rockies, the awesome magnitude of the geography laid out before you should be the main attraction, not finding just the right Banff t-shirt. So we explored on foot and got as far away from the town as we could, with the exception of the film we caught at the local cinema.

I was further turned off by Banff when I got into a verbal exchange, or should I say ‘confrontation’ with some jerk at the laundromat. Normally, I wouldn’t bother relating the conversation to you, but I was so dumbfounded by the interaction I had with the guy, that I just have to write it down.
First, I noticed this man (let’s call him the Jerk), sitting with his four teenage kids near where we put in our loads for washing. The laundromat was very small, and anyone suffering from claustrophobia would not have lasted more than a few seconds in this basement establishment. He was talking about being ‘subhuman’. Andy claims he was commenting on an article caption that the man’s son was reading from a local paper. I think he was referring to being cooped up in the laundromat. Either way, you could tell right off the bat that he was irritable, yet he exhibited signs of intelligence through his banter with his kids. So during my time, and I do mean time…like prison time, down there washing two weeks worth of clothes, I went to put our clothing in the one free dryer in the whole place. The Jerk’s son was standing in front of the dryer, and I asked if it was free. He said yes, and then his Dad made some comment about how he was trying to keep all their loads together. I responded by saying that if he needed the dryer he could have it. He then made some joke, that for the life of me I cannot remember. I think it had something to do with guarding machines in places like this, and I shot back with a joking, “You must be an American”. He looked at me with a look of confusion. I qualified my statement by saying that I was an American and remember many scuffles over ‘saved’ machines in laudromats back home. Now, I admit that I may have been a little rude throwing my two cents in (jokingly mind you), but he had set the stage with his comment said with a dry wit that I have come to know and love in my short 34 years. So I said again, “Are you from the states?” He didn’t respond. I asked, “Are you American?” Still nothing. The eyes of his four children (who looked like they ranged in age from 15-21) darted between us like they were watching a ping pong match. Finally, when I asked a last time, “Are you from the United States?” he responded with, “I’m from Seattle.” The last time I checked, Seattle was a part of the United States. A simple yes would have done the job.
I thought it was so bizarre that he would not acknowledge his nationality. Maybe I’m overreacting. But to me, one usually doesn’t stumble at the “where are you from” question. In fact, I can usually pick Americans out of a crowd. They are often the ones wearing a red, white, and blue, flag t-shirt, or an “Official Bikini Inspector” baseball cap. I’m not trying to stereotype, but let’s be clear. Americans can usually be pegged by our lack of ability to just ‘blend in’.
So, the Jerk avoided me like the plague for the rest of the time we were stuck together in that subterranean wash and spin joint. I did however keep an eye on him, watching as he hogged (and hid) the only cart in the place, barked at his kids to guard their dryers and his video camera, and put out a general negative vibe to anyone unlucky to come into contact with him.
We stocked up on supplies and left Banff on Wednesday. We’re now in Calgary. Or, I should say I’m in Calgary. Andy left this morning for his friend Andy Smith’s wedding back in the states. Yesterday we did some sightseeing in City Centre. The much written about Eau Claire Market is a total letdown. Just think Emervyille Marketplace ‘light’. Half of the retail spaces are empty, and the sound of a cheesy aerobic mambo dance instructor (teaching a class on the first level) echoes through the entire market.
Chinatown is limited to a four small city blocks, with its claim to fame being that the area was actually saved from redevelopment. A park honoring the fact that somebody did something right and didn’t remove the little culture evident in the downtown area is lovely to stroll through. And, Prince Island Park offers an oasis in an otherwise boring landscape of mirrored buildings and downtown business districts with little character.
I finally got to catch up on some reading today, and watched with interest as dark ominous clouds moved in. The park where I am staying is in a farming area, bordered by the ever present construction of urban sprawl. Less than a mile away, cookie cutter homes are going up by the thousands. But here, there are fields and horses and the smell of freshly cut grass. Not unlike the Great Plains, one can watch as a storm moves in. Thunder clapped loudly throughout the sky, and I sat watching as the sky changed shape. It was strangely peaceful to sit in my chair and look above at the chaos of dark grey plump clouds as they pushed into each other. For the first time in a long time I was content. No chatter filled my head, and I wasn’t consumed with planning the next 23 months of our trip. Instead, I just sat and watched, in awe of nature’s beauty.
Bright, jagged bolts of lighting struck down with quickness, and when the rain finally came, it was only for a moment. The rain drops were huge, splattering when they made contact. The thunder lasted for over an hour, a sign that a storm travels slowly in these parts. A few more bolts of lightning, and I was happy to retreat to the van to watch a DVD.


So now, here I am listening to Cesaria Evora and typing away as I reflect on the trips most recent events. I hope I haven’t bored you…


































